The “Halo” Effect – Bad HDR

This is something that really bugs me, especially when I see people sharing work that is guilty of this terrible photography mistake. I am all for people using photography the way they want, but there is a point that it’s so unrealistic that it shouldn’t be seen as “good” photography. All I’m trying to do is educate on what “good” photography technique really is.

In my own photography, I try to process an image to make it as close to what I saw as possible. Dynamic range is a big limiter of achieving this, but proper RAW processing can help overcome MOST scenes. Some scenes will have highlights blown out or dark shadows and it’s unavoidable. In reality, most modern digital cameras can capture a huge dynamic range without artificial brightening.

HDR or high dynamic range imaging is what I would consider a “fad” or a “gimmick” in modern photography. Ansel Adams may have used BASIC darkroom techniques to darken or lighten areas of his image, but he had a vast knowledge of exposure and planned his exposure in camera knowing his limits in processing. An HDR image consists of multiple greatly different exposures that are processed in a program that combines the brightened shadows and darkened highlights into a single image.

In my own photography I ALWAYS use a single exposure that is processed in Aperture 3 using the Canon RAW file. The image below is a very extreme example of a huge dynamic range. There was barely enough detail in the shadows for me to be able to brighten them just a bit. Making the shadows any lighter would result in a really fake looking image. The human eye is able to see the full range of the bright sunset and shadows in the tree, but the camera just isn’t capable enough yet. I exposed the image in camera so that the only the highlights in the very brightest part of the sunset would be clipped (blown out).

IMG_2337

Here’s one example of a “bad” processing, using an HDR technique. This scene has NO need to use any HDR technique to capture the entire dynamic range. A polarizing filter would have probably made this image look great in camera. Now there is a terrible “halo” effect around the sky.

Source: HDR-photo.org
Source: HDR-photo.org

It is very easy to spot when someone has artificially brightened a scene to overcome dark areas caused by bad exposure IN the camera. If you’re shooting a person against a bright background, you need to expose for the subject to be the correct brightness. If your background is too bright for your taste, try a polarizing filter or turning the subject so they are front-lit.

I see this all too often in fishing photos, especially out on the deep sea, where lighting is harsh and unforgivable. It’s clear to see the artificial brightening of the shadows in this shot below. There is a nasty halo around anything that was dark, and the highlights are gray and muddy. This was probably processed in a cheap, gimmicky program that makes an image appear “cool” or good to an amateur.

source: Google
source: Google

Obviously, this photographer wasn’t trying to shoot a magazine cover, just a shot to remember his trip. There are, however, many pro fisherman that use this same technique and come out with terrible looking photos (at least to my eye).

What’s an easy fix to overcome dark shadows in your picture? Use the fill flash on your camera for a little more natural looking image straight out the camera. Light has a certain tonal curve to follow so that it looks correct, and the image below is just not natural looking.

Feel free to drop me an email at info@trentsizemore.com with any questions you may have about getting better lighting in your photos!

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Principle of Design – Proportion

Proportion is one of my favorite ways to create interesting compositions. One good way to achieve an image with great use of proportion is to use a wide angle lens.

This image from St. George Island in Florida emphasizes the sky by placing only a small amount of the green ground in the frame. In this case, the sky is much larger proportionately.

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When using a wide angle lens, you can get really close to your subject and make it look much bigger than the surrounding background.

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Using this technique and larger proportions in general are a quick and easy way to emphasize a subject that you want to stand out.

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Principle of Design – Movement

Movement is all about moving the viewer’s eye throughout the frame, and creating an illusion that your image is moving. Examples of good use of movement are blurred water, diagonal lines, and stopping motion when appropriate.

The image below uses both of these ideas. The texture gives somewhat of a “vibrating” look, like the forest is moving. The combination of dark and light vertical lines helps to move the viewer’s eye from one side to the other.

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This photograph from Fires Creek in North Carolina uses blurred motion of the water to emphasize the constant flow of the water. This is achieved by the use of a long exposure and a tripod.

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Lines create movement of the viewer’s eye all around this piece. The spiral naturally draws you back into the frame, where you land on the last circle.

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Principle of Design – Variety

Variety is about varying elements and objects in your image, to avoid making them boring. Variety can also be varying your angles, exposure, composition, etc., to get a few different looks to the same image.

This image below has variety because each shell is completely unique. There is also unity in this image because each shell is still a part of the whole beach. You can vary color, shape, textures, and any other combination of elements.

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This image has variety by introducing another element into the foreground of the picture. Without the rocks, this would be just another waterfall image. The rocks add something new, while keeping the same feel in the overall image.

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Principles of Design – Unity

Principles of Design - Unity

Unity is what brings an image together as one piece. A good photograph that is unified is one where everything appears to belong. No elements are added that shouldn’t be there and don’t help with the overall composition.

This image below is unified by not only the bright colors throughout the image, but also the fall leaves that cover the entire frame.

fall leaves in a creek with green and blue reflections

This image of a pile of leaves is unified by the similar shape of the leaves.

black and white image of pile of leaves

This final, multiple exposure image is unified by color and texture. The entire image consists of these similar elements and therefore looks “unified”.

Principles of Design - Unity

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Lowepro Photo Hatchback AW 22L Review

After getting the Lowepro Photo Hatchback 22L for Christmas, I took it on a couple of hiking trips and decided to write up a review. I use the pack for day hiking since I can carry most of the camera gear I need along with any other little things I may want on the hike. During the summer, I may try carrying just a light sleeping bag and hammock in the pack for overnight trips.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback AW 22L Straps

The straps are padded well and plenty comfortable for a full day hike. The waist strap could benefit from padding, but it is still helpful if the pack is on the heavy side.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback AW 22L front

The overall quality of the pack is excellent. I wouldn’t hesitate to place it on the ground to take a break.

Lowepro camera backpack

Lowepro seems to be a great brand, with many other quality camera products.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback AW 22L zippers

One thing I love about the pack is how smooth the zippers are. They will never get stuck and can be zipped with one hand.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback AW 22L iPad pouch

The front of the pack has a padded compartment to fit an iPad or Macbook Air.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback Water bottle pouch

Both sides of the pack have stretchy compartments to hold a decent sized water bottle. You may be able to put a water bladder in the iPad compartment as well.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback with ND Filter pouch

Inside the top compartment, I carry my ND filter pouch as well as a jacket or two.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback camera compartment

This pack is a “hatchback” because the camera is accessed on the backside of the pack. This keeps the camera safe from theft as well as placing it down on the ground. It also offers more protection in the rain.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback with Canon 7d and lenses

Inside the camera compartment, there is plenty of room for my Canon 7D and the two lenses I use most (18-55 IS and 70-300 IS USM). I use the one divider down the middle so everything will fit no matter which lens is on the camera. I also keep two batteries, some screw on filters, tripod mounts, caps, etc. in this compartment.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback memory card pouch

Inside the lid for the camera compartment is a stretchy holder for a memory card or two. This is an odd feature because one flap goes over the other so you have to separate them to put the card inside. It seems like there could be an easier compartment to use than this.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback keychain pouch

Also inside the top compartment is a keychain holder, useful for ensuring your keys don’t fall out on a hiking trip. This is actually inside another zippered pouch in the top.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback removable camera tray

The entire camera tray is removable and the pack can be opened up to become a full day pack without the dividers.

Lowepro Photo Hatchback removable camera tray AW cover

The tray includes an AW cover for a little protection and handles on the sides. There is also an AW cover that covers the entire pack to protect from the rain.

The Lowepro Photo Hatchback AW 22L is currently around $108 on Amazon. You can purchase it through the link and I will get a little commission at no cost to you!

A Few Goals for 2013

July Siler Bald

With the new year coming up in just a few hours, I’d like to set a few goals for 2013. These range from places I’d like to see, gear I’d like to have, and where my online presence will go!

1. Get a full frame camera and at least a couple L series Canon lenses.

I would really like to get a full frame camera, either a Canon 5D or 6D. Before that, I would like to get some quality glass and invest in my lenses. Lenses can be kept for years, while camera bodies are replaced more often.

2. Reach at least 5,000 fans on either of my Facebook fan pages.

I really think Facebook is a great source for marketing and exposure of my work. I want to grow my online presence and get my work out there in 2013. You can help by like my pages!

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3. Visit a new National Park

While Mammoth Cave and the Everglades are reasonably close, I’d like to at least attempt planning a trip to Yellowstone!

4. Create more online videos

I’d like to work on my YouTube presence and make it more of a revenue generating tool through behind the scenes videos and other tutorials. I’m also working on creating more outdoor content and trail guides.

5. Lead a few photography workshops

I’ve pre-scheduled some dates, one each month, for my 2013 workshops. Check them out here – Workshops

12 Best of 2012

With the new year just a couple of days away, I thought I’d share what I think is the best shot from each month of 2012. I would love to hear what your favorites are; leave a comment once you get to the end!

Thanks and happy new year!

-Trent

january mosquito lagoon florida

January

This was taken in the Canaveral National Seashore in Florida on the first day of the year. This sunset concluded a great day of the beach and fishing Mosquito Lagoon.

 

February sunset Shooting Creek, North Carolina

February

This spectacular sunset was taken just outside my house on Shooting Creek in North Carolina.

 

March Stone Mountain Lake Covered Bridge

March

March was the first kayak fishing tournament of the season for the Southern Kayak Anglers. This shot is a covered bridge across Stone Mountain Lake in Georgia.

 

April

During the month of April, Seth and I went out to a remote stream in north Georgia to put together a short video on fishing for native Brook Trout

 

May Little RIver

May

This was my first trip to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. After this trip, I couldn’t resist coming back again and again. This is the Little River, just outside of the Elkmont Campground in Tennessee.

 

June Kilby Creek Falls

June

The month of June brings the start of the heat here in North Carolina. This is a cool, refreshing waterfall deep in the Nantahala National Forest in North Carolina.

 

July Siler Bald

July

Siler Bald is located between Franklin and Hayesville, North Carolina. This is a great hike, just off of the Appalachian Trail.

 

August St. George Island

August

Picking this image from August was a no-brainer. This was taken while surf fishing in St. George Island State Park in Florida.

 

September Baskins Creek Falls

September

With five trips to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in the month of September, it was not easy picking the best shot. I chose this one of Baskins Creek Falls because of both its remoteness and its uniqueness. This shot expresses my style more than some of the others I could have picked.

 

October Tuni Creek

October

October was another difficult month to narrow down to just one shot. The fall colors were spectacular and condition were perfect for shooting many days. I chose this shot because of its perspective and technically, it is spot on.

 

green trees 1

November

Only towards the end of this year, did I start experimenting with new techniques. This image is a combination of multiple similar exposures that creates a great textured piece resembling a painting.

 

Cherohala Skyway Sunrise December

December

Even though I did give many other shots a chance by looking again, this shot just blew them all away. Nothing beats being there at the right time and this image from the Cherohala Skyway in North Carolina was proof. The colors and light this scene displayed were far beyond the scope of any camera, so this was the best result I could obtain.

Leave a comment below with your favorite!

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Inside the Image #1

Many people ask how I achieved the look in this image. The texture that appears to be similar to a chalk or pastel drawing comes from combining multiple exposures of slightly different images.

The images below are the 8 exposures that are combined in an editing program, using a special blending mode, to create the image you see above. Each one is moved just slightly, giving the final composition a layered, textured look.

These images are underexposed in order to create a correct exposure when they are combined.

Winter Green | Trent Sizemore Photography

Essential Camera Settings for Landscape Photography

Canon 7D highlight alert menu settings

Whether you’re a complete beginner or just looking for a few things to help you take better landscape images, you should find something useful here.

Many items in the menus of today’s newer cameras become unnecessary when you should in RAW. While these tips can be adapted to most modern cameras, my menu settings are based off the Canon 7D.

1. Shoot RAW+Small JPEG

Shooting in RAW allows much more latitude in post-processing. While it should be kept to a minimum, any changes you make will have nearly no effect on the overall image quality. You can adjust the white balance (important), exposure, black point, brightness, and others, all without adding much (if any) additional noise or quality reduction. Adding a small JPEG speeds up the processing and displaying on the computer. Aperture 3 can use the included JPEG to display a preview instead of having to create its own preview, which takes a lot of time.

2. Use a Neutral picture style

Although the picture style is not applied to the RAW image, it is applied to the JPEG preview that you see on the LCD. Choosing neutral will ensure the JPEG preview accurately depicts the RAW image captured.

This is important to landscape photographers because RAW captures more dynamic range than what you can see in the JPEG. In post-processing, you’ll have the ability to recover a lot of highlight detail and gain another stop or two (or more) of dynamic range latitude. Tip number 5 will talk about displaying the highlight alert. You can expose your image to have a little bit of highlight clipping and be able to get this back once you process the RAW image. Check out this YouTube video on doing this –

3. Set your white balance for each new scene

White balance is another setting that is only applicable to the JPEG preview. Setting the correct white balance instead of using auto allows a more accurate LCD preview image.

4. Use Dust Delete Data

Dust delete data is available on Canon cameras (and others) as a way to cancel out dust particles on each image so they won’t show up. You do this once and it’s applied to each image. You can also just get your sensor cleaned professionally.

5. Enable Highlight alert

Highlight alert shows a blinking black area on your LCD preview of what highlights are clipping to total white. This is useful when there is a large dynamic range and you want to capture as much detail as possible. You can have a relatively small amount of clipping (10-20%?) of the image and be able to recover it in post-processing. Of course, there may be times when having total white in your scene is useful.

6. Don’t set your LCD brightness too bright or too dim

The LCD should give you a good idea of what the image looks like. You want to make sure the brightness is set so you don’t think your image is over or under exposed when it really isnt.

7. Shoot at ISO 100

In any camera, ISO 100 has the optimal noise performance, dynamic range, and color quality when compared to high ISOs. Since you can use a tripod with landscape photography and use long shutter speeds, ISO 100 is a must.

8. USE A TRIPOD

A tripod is an absolute MUST for quality landscape photography. It allows slower shutter speeds so that you can shoot at ISO 100. Not only that, it is also essential for getting shots where you want to blur the water. Of course, if it’s so bright outside that you can shoot at ISO 100 or 200 and get a good shutter speed, then shooting handheld is fine.

If you do use a tripod, make sure you turn off image stabilization so it doesn’t over correct itself.

9. Don’t bracket shots or use HDR

Bracketing shots allows you to get multiple exposures of a scene. Basically this means you are unsure what the “correct” exposure should be. Over time I’ve learned how to expose for any scene, including those with a dynamic range that exceeds my cameras limitations. Within 3 shots, I can make sure my exposure is where it should be. I’ll keep the best after that so I don’t have a ton of images to go through again later.

Using HDR is just unnecessary in my opinion. The amount of latitude you have for processing a RAW file is more than enough for almost any scene. You can still have detail in the shadows without clipping too much in the highlights. Some scenes with a huge range of light may benefit from the use of Grad ND filters. This will ensure you’re getting right in camera without having to use HDR in editing.

10. Keep post-processing to a minimum

Why change what’s already beautiful? Getting everything right in camera to make sure you’re displaying the scene naturally will let you keep processing to a minimum. Some people’s photography is about creating a new piece of art, regardless of it being natural or not. My work is about showing the true beauty in nature, how it really is. The challenge is overcoming the limits of the camera to do this in a pleasing way.

Principles of Design – Contrast

the principles of design in photography - contrast - a window inside an old cabin in the great smoky mountains national park

The principle of contrast is relatively easy to understand. Contrast adds interest to any photograph. Whether it’s local contrast in specific areas, or global contrast across the entire image, it will almost always add pop to your image.

HDR images that look “fake” have no global contrast. The light is even throughout the entire frame. Personally, I don’t think this looks very natural at all.

An image like this one below has a huge amount of contrast, so much that the blacks go totally black in some areas and the whites are clipped and go completely white. The window is from the inside of the Noah “Bud” Ogle cabin in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

the principles of design in photography - contrast - a window inside an old cabin in the great smoky mountains national park

This image of the same cabin also has contrast that really makes this image stand out.

Here is another great example of the use of contrast. The natural lighting really made this image, lighting the trees in the foreground.

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